COMMERCIAL JEWELLERY TECHNIQUES: INNOVATING SELECTED CONTEMPORARY MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES

Abstract

This study is an investigation into specialised techniques which can aid the establishment of a unique South African jewellery design style in order to enhance commercial and contemporary jewellery. The initial impetus for this investigation was informed by conclusions drawn and recommendations proffered by various previous studies which indicated that the lack of uniqueness of South African jewellery concepts as well as the replication of Western or Eurocentric trends in local jewellery have resulted in South African jewellery being an unmarketable brand abroad. The study showcases the development of diverse techniques which has increasingly become obsolete in the modern South African epoch of commercial jewellery. This study argues that the primary inclination of jewellery designers and especially from European immigrant origin to simply employ traditional African crafts, patterns and artefacts as inspiration for formulating a South African style of jewellery, has in the past traversed the portrayal of African culture as primitive. As a remedial approach this study delineates on the possibilities of designers employing and developing an auto-ethnographic design style whilst also incorporating specialist techniques in the pursuit of self-expression in jewellery design. This study argues that such an approach will lead to a more unique and representative jewellery design style and which will be a more appropriate or authentic representation of South Africa’s diversity. Considering that South Africa is a major producer of precious metals and precious stones whilst only producing roughly 2% of the world’s jewellery, the South African government has in recent years invested heavily in the jewellery industry with a view on its advancement and growth. Subsequently, this investigation additionally delineates on views of jewellery specialists on the state of jewellery design and manufacture in South Africa in order to formulate recommendations for the South African jewellery industry to propagate a progressively more mature industry.